Fabio Oberto

"Selected with passion, made as tradition."

Fabio’s story is a long one for a relatively young man. It began with his grandfather Paolo Oberto, who farmed a few hectares of vineyards in La Morra, one of the five principle towns in the famed appellation of Barolo. When Paolo died unexpectedly, his grown son Andrea left his career to take over the family farm and, in 1978, he began bottling the family’s production rather than selling to the local cantina sociale. Gradually the production was expanded to include 18 hectares of Dolcetto, Barbera - including from the famed vineyard “Giada” with vines now approaching 80 years of age - and of course, Barolo. The family’s holdings include almost a hectare of one of Barolo’s true Grand Cru vineyards - Rocche del Annunziata.

At first, Andrea was impressed by the efforts of the "Barolo Boys" - who were changing the world of Barolo quickly and dramatically - and filled his cellar with new barriques. But over the years, his son Fabio brought more and more restraint to the equation, purchasing botti, or large oaken casks of various sizes, one by one, until by the 2011 vintage the base Barolo was aged only in botti.

Fabio worked side by side with his father Andrea from an early age, and for 22 years, handled many aspects of the Azienda’s business, from work in the cellar and vineyards to international travel in the US, Asia, and Europe, while his father focused on the important work in the vineyards and cellar. He made many friends along the way, and I count myself fortunate to be among them. His single-mindedness towards the ideal expression of his wines impressed many people, including prominent reviewers such as Antonio Galloni, who said in 2012 “Fabio and Andrea Oberto are arguably La Morra's most important under-the-radar growers.” When tasting the wines of Oberto, one realizes that they are archetypal - perfect examples of their type, vintage after vintage - whether Barbera, Barolo, or the humble Dolcetto. 

In 2017, Fabio created his own company, “La Collina di Dioniso da Fabio Oberto.” The reasons for doing so are complex, but it is perhaps enough to say that he is now able to pursue his own vision in a way that allows him to continue working with his father but also gives him complete creative freedom. Indeed most of the wines are sourced from the original vineyards of his father, to which he has added new and exquisitely produced wines from local grapes such as Nascetta and Arneis, as well as a new base Barolo, traditionally styled with long macerations and extended elevage in botti up to 100HL.

His new label is gracious, evocative, and modern. The artwork for the label derives from an artist friend from Milan, Francesco Musante, who was no doubt inspired one evening after just enough Oberto Barolo to whet artistic sensibilities, to create the perfect image for this new project of Fabio’s: a nod to the glories of wine, nature, and to the positive outcomes that can come with inevitable change. 

Oberto’s purity of expression - the raw, head-spinning impact of the wines - is still there in spades, with a new and fresh look, and with an energy and abundance that can only come from Fabio.